Arizona Breaking News
Climbing Access Update: McDowell Mountains / North Scottsdale, AZ (11/19/2008)
By Erik Filsinger, Climber Liaison with City of Scottsdale Preserve Staff and Land Advocacy Chair for the Arizona Mountaineering Club
Progress has been made to build and open formal access to the trails (and rock climbing) at the north end of the McDowell Mountains in Scottsdale, Arizona. Crags like Sven Slab, Sven Towers, Hog Heaven, Granite Ballroom, Rosetta Stone, Morrell’s Wall, Gardeners Wall, Crossroads Wall, Glass Dome, Tom’s Thumb, Lost Wall, Fort McDowell, and Half and Half Wall provide some of the best granite rock climbing in the Phoenix area. This area has now been included within the City of Scottsdale McDowell Sonoran Preserve. We have been working closely with City Staff to identify established rock climbing routes and appropriate access from the official City trails.
The exciting news is that construction on the Tom’s Thumb trail has begun. Climbers need to be aware and communicate with other rock climbers that respecting any temporary closures in the area while construction is underway is imperative. For example, the Morrell’s Parking Area will be closed for 4 to 5 months beginning this November for construction staging; a gate will be placed and signed for public closure. This means the traditional approach to Morrell’s Wall will not be available during that time period. Please respect the signage and closures; it is in climbers long term interest to show that we, as climbers, will continue to be good citizens and partners with the City and the Preserve. The other “not signed for temporary closure” rock climbing crags will remain open, so enjoy a safe time out there! Please contact Erik Filsinger for more information.
Queen Creek Coalition Holds Climber Meeting (04/15/2008)
On March 24, the newly-formed Queen Creek Coalition (members of the Friends of Queen Creek, Arizona Mountaineering Club, owners of Phoenix-area climbing gyms, and unaffiliated climbers) held a public meeting to provide the Arizona climbing community with an update on their efforts to advocate for climbing access in the Oak Flat/Queen Creek Canyon area. The Queen Creek Coalition was formed to give climbers and other recreational users a voice in the proposed Southeast Arizona Land Exchange and Conservation Act. The 2007 versions of this land exchange bill (S.1862 and H.B. 3301) were introduced into the 110th Congressional Session of Congress by Senator Kyl and Representative Pastor. The legislation would transfer significant climbing and bouldering to Resolution Copper Company.
This meeting was in conjunction with a regular meeting of the Arizona Mountaineering Club. About 50 climbers attended to learn more about the history of climbing in the area and the current status of the land exchange legislation.
For more background on this issue
www.queencreekcoalition.com/March08_Presentation/page1.html.
Check back regularly with the Queen Creek Coalition for news and updates.
www.queencreekcoalition.com
New Coalition to Address Climbing Issues in Central Arizona (03/13/2008)
From the Queen Creek Coalition
Central Arizona climbers have formed a new climber’s advocacy group—the Queen Creek Coalition (QCC)—to address issues related to 1) the proposed new mining activity near Oak Flat, 2) ongoing associated legislative activity that would transfer public land to Resolution Copper Company, and 3) possible new highway construction impacts. www.queencreekcoalition.com.
For the third time in as many years, Resolution Copper Company (Resolution) has introduced federal legislation, dubbed the “Southeast Arizona Land Exchange and Conservation Act,” that would privatize Oak Flat, a public recreation area where mining has been prohibited under federal law since 1955. The company has been exploring a deep deposit of copper ore beneath this area for over four years and is pursuing ownership of Oak Flat to create a new mine. Resolution is owned by Rio Tinto and BHP Billiton, two of the world’s largest multi-national mining companies.
“The proposed land exchange could result in the loss of much of the vast climbing resources of Queen Creek Canyon and the region,” says Fred AmRhein, spokesperson for the Coalition, whose members include representatives from the Arizona Mountaineering Club, Friends of Queen Creek, the proprietors of several Phoenix-area climbing gyms, climbing guide book authors, local retail outdoor equipment outlet proprietors, and other local citizens with strong ties to the Queen Creek Region. The coalition was formed primarily to address the future of climbing, hiking, and camping in the area. "Our intention is to be inclusive, to bring the community together, and to actively and fairly pursue solutions that allow coexistence of community, commerce, and conservation,” says AmRhein.
The Queen Creek Coalition website (www.queencreekcoalition.com) is now active and more information will be added soon. Feel free to contact the QCC with any questions or suggestions. At the following upcoming public meetings the Queen Creek Coalition will be introduced, give updates, and answer questions:
•Monday, March 24, 2008 at 7 pm during the Arizona Mountaineering Club March membership meeting (at the Phoenix Country Day School 3901 East Stanford Drive in Paradise Valley)
•Saturday, March 29, 2008 after climbing at the Phlapper Phest at the Oak Flat bouldering area (follow signs to the site south of the campground). For directions see www.queencreekcoalition.com.
Update on Oak Flat and Queen Creek, AZ (11/16/2007)
By Erik Filsinger, Land Advocacy Chair, Arizona Mountaineering Club
Over the past several month’s members of the local Arizona climbing community have expressed concern about the substance and process surrounding the proposed federal legislative land exchange involving Oak Flat near the Queen Creek climbing areas. See www.govtrack.us/congress/bill.xpd?bill=h110-3301.
The Governor of Arizona raised a number of serious concerns about the state’s role www.mynewdb.com/QC/GovToEdPastor_Letter.pdf, as have local Native American communities about the displacement of historic lands www.mining-law-reform.info/IndexSup.htm.
These political developments and growing unrest within the climbing community regarding the enforceability and longevity of the access license to climbing in Queen Creek Canyon resulted in considerable discussions with elected officials and the filing of testimony to a congressional hearing on the proposed legislation. See: http://resourcescommittee.house.gov/index.php?option=com_jcalpro&Itemid=32&extmode=flat. Due in part to these local-based actions, the House Natural Resources Committee, Subcommittee on National Parks, Forests and Public Lands, does not appear to be forwarding any legislation this year for further action. For more information on the activities and local concerns, see: www.amcaz.org/main/QueenCreek/amcActionStepsQC.html or contact Paul Diefenderfer at info@friendsofqueencreek.com.
New Land Exchange Proposal Introduced Into Congress for Oak Flat, AZ (08/15/2007)
In early August two bills were introduced into Congress that would transfer Oak Flat—US Forest Service land east of Superior, Arizona—to Resolution Copper Company to develop a massive copper mine. The result of this land exchange would result in the loss of thousands of bouldering problems and roped sport climbs at the popular Oak Flat area. This issue is of longstanding importance to the Access Fund as it would result in the single largest loss of climbing resources ever. For more background, see the Friends of Queen Creek’s website at www.friendsofqueencreek.com and www.accessfund.org/saveoakflat
The proposed law, introduced by US Senators Kyl and McCain in the Senate and US Representative Pastor in the House, now faces scrutiny by the relevant congressional committees that oversee public lands and federal land exchanges. At issue for climbers in the proposed “Southeast Arizona Land Exchange and Conservation Act of 2007” are the following provisions:
The permanent loss of bouldering and roped climbing at Oak Flat, although the Access Fund last year obtained a recreational use license to continue climbing at Queen Creek Canyon and Oak Flat up to five years following the land exchange if it passes. See www.accessfund.org/display/page/PR/40
If the bill does become law the climbing sites at Oak Flat known as the ‘‘Mine Area’’ and ‘‘Euro Dog Valley’’ will be closed to public use immediately; however, the bill provides for continued public access to most of the Oak Flat area for two years after enactment.
The establishment of a new state park for climbing to “replace” what’s lost at Oak Flat. This area is, unlike Oak Flat, primarily roped climbing, further from Phoenix, and will cost climbers an entry fee. A state law http://law.justia.com/arizona/codes/title41/00511-16.html already authorizing the new state park, but the proposed 2-wheel drive access road remains a question mark in terms of construction and funding.
This land exchange must now overcome renewed opposition by local Apaches and citizens groups www.eastvalleytribune.com/story/93851 a new Congress generally more critical of land exchanges. The Access Fund will continue to work with Congress to ensure that the interests of climbers are represented in this proposed law.
For more information about the licensed climbing in Queen Creek Canyon and what’s at stake for Oak Flat, contact jason@accessfund.org
Pinnacle Peak Park, AZ (11/14/2006)
By Erik Filsinger, AMC Land Advocacy Chair
Please keep in mind that Pinnacle Peak Park opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. Currently the listed park hours are 6:15 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. The hours are posted at the entrance. If you do not exit the gates of the park prior to closing (or are within the park before opening) you could be subject to arrest and fines for criminal trespassing, a felony in AZ.
Please also remember that the climbing community and the AMC in particular worked very hard for the opening of Pinnacle Peak Park and to keep climbing there. We agreed in negotiations to certain conditions, one of which was to respect the park operational hours, so the facts mentioned above are part of the price we pay to retain this precious urban climbing area.
Do what you can to help out. The park staff is very supportive of climbing.
Proposition 106 - Conserving Arizona's Future (10/12/2006)
By Erik Filsinger, Arizona Mountaineering Club Land Advocacy Chair
Passage of Proposition 106 on November 7th would allow about 400,000 acres of the 7,000,000 acres total of State Trust Lands to be used for Conservation. Without that designation the current system of selling State Trust Land to the highest bidder would continue and where there are now trails and climbing areas there will be houses and gated communities.
The designation of 400,000 acres for conservation includes urban lands near Phoenix that contain significant climbing areas. Without passage of Proposition 106 the State Trust Land's in north Scottsdale could be sold to the developers. These climbing areas include Little Granite and Cholla Mountains. Elsewhere State Trust Lands could impact climbing at Cochise Stronghold, Upper and Lower Devils Canyon, and Jacuzzi Spires.
Proposition 106 has an even bigger impact for other outdoor recreational users such as mountain bikers and hikers who will lose many hundreds of miles of trails in urban areas of State Trust Land scattered around Arizona's cities.
For more information contact Erik Filsinger, Arizona Mountaineering Club Land Advocacy Chair at smorefil@aol.com.