Kentucky Breaking News
Proposed Kentucky Highway Improvements Could Negatively Impact Muir Valley Climbing (11/19/2008)
By Doris Edwards, Friends of Muir Valley, Co-chair; Rick and Liz Weber, Muir Valley, LLC, owners
The Kentucky Transportation Cabinet (KTC) is undertaking a project that could have a significant detrimental impact on climbing access to Muir Valley Nature Preserve. The poorly publicized timeline and funding for this project are not definitive, so the final outcome can still be influenced by public comment. Local, non-climbing residents favor an alternative which results in less impacts to their own properties and greater impacts to the Muir Valley Preserve. It is imperative that climbers weigh in and let the KTC know how their alternative plans would impact climbing and other forms of recreation.
In less than five years, Muir Valley has grown to be one of the highest visited climbing venues in the Eastern U.S. In 2007, over 10,600 visitor days were recorded for the Preserve and will rise to over 12,000 in 2008. Muir Valley is privately owned, climber friendly, and free to the public.
Specifically, the KTC is studying how to re-route and improve KY Highway 715 between KY 11 near Zachariah and the Mountain Parkway in Wolfe County. A total of nine alternatives are under consideration. Most of these alternatives would have a negative impact on Muir Valley as a portion of the Preserve would be acquired through eminent domain, possibly closing the emergency and maintenance road entrance to the Valley. KTC’s Alternatives A, C, or X (X being nothing changes) would have the least detrimental impact to Muir Valley, but Alternatives E or F would have a disastrous one. The very heart of the Preserve would be lost to eminent domain and the Muir Valley owners would likely close the Preserve to all recreational activities (including climbing) permanently. Click here to view a map of Muir Valley with the study area shown overlaid in pink. The map shows that over half of the climbs in Muir Valley lie in area that could be taken by eminent domain.
Muir Valley owners, Rick and Liz Weber, are in contact with KY officials and have commented on alternatives. They appreciate the support and guidance of the Access Fund, specifically Jason Keith, Access Fund Policy Director, in dealing with the public process. Updated information will be posted on www.MuirValley.com as available.
Climbers and other interested parties are strongly encouraged to help protect their access to Muir Valley by submitting comments. Request that the Alternative selected be one that will have the least impact on Muir Valley. Written comments should be sent to:
Director, Division of Planning
Kentucky Transportation Cabinet
200 Mero Street Station W5-05-0
Frankfort, KY 40622
Or contact: kytc.planningwebpage@ky.gov
Red River Gorge, KY - Torrent Falls Reopens (08/14/2008)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director, Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition
On August 1, 2008, the privately owned Torrent Falls climbing area reopened to the public on a limited basis after being closed for over a year and a half. The area was closed when climber behavior conflicted with the use of the property as a tourist resort. After the property was sold, the current owner maintained the public climbing closure but made known their intention to reopen the area at some point.
Limited public access is now being granted, free of charge (per KRS 411.190), to those who sign a waiver and register on www.torrentfallsclimbing.com. The number of parties and cars (car-pool!) is limited to three, with a recommended maximum group size of three. Access is allowed on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays only. Online registration begins at 6am each day and is valid only for the day of registration. The entrance gate to Torrent operates from 8am until 8pm with the code provided during registration. The gate is locked at all other times, so please plan your day accordingly. Each vehicle is required to display a valid parking pass obtained during the online registration. Vehicles without passes will be towed or immobilized.
Ever since Torrent Falls was purchased by current RRGCC President Dr. Robert Matheny, Jr., the Coalition has been holding open Board meetings there. Meeting attendees are allowed the privilege of climbing for that day. After improvements are completed on the lodge building, the RRGCC plans to lease one of the rooms for office space. Because of term limits, Dr. Bob's position on the RRGCC Board will expire in spring 2009. The RRGCC truly appreciates all that Dr. Bob has done for the organization in his six years as a Board member and thanks him for giving us the opportunity to establish Torrent Falls as our new office and base of operations!
Road Improvements at Muir Valley, KY (06/16/2008)
By Doris Edwards, Friends of Muir Valley, Co-Chairperson
On May 29, the half-mile lane leading back to Muir Valley was closed for one week so that it could undergo major rebuilding. This was deemed necessary by the preserve owners due to the increasing number of climbing visitors—close to 600 during the Memorial Day weekend alone.
Two large, blind hills were completely removed during construction to make the drive into the Valley much safer. Although not completely finished, the road was reopened on June 7.
Visitors to Muir Valley are asked to drive slowly on the new road as the shoulders are soft and the ditches steep at this time. Cleanup along the side of the new road will continue by Friends of Muir Valley volunteers over the next few weeks.
Muir Valley Nature Preserve: “Build It and Climbers Will Come,” (04/15/2008)
By Doris Edwards, Friends of Muir Valley, Co-Chairperson
Muir Valley Nature Preserve in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge area is 400 acres of privately owned land developed as a nature preserve and climbing venue. It is open to the public and has quickly grown in popularity, with over 10,000 visitors in 2007. To meet the demands of the ever-increasing number of climbers, the Friends of Muir Valley, a local, volunteer-based organization made up of over 300 active supporters, is working closely with the owners to continuously improve and maintain the infrastructure of Muir Valley.
Friends of Muir Valley would like to remind visitors that climbing on private land is a privilege. To help mitigate the impacts of the growing number of visitors, dogs are no longer allowed at the Preserve. Please leave your dog at home. Also, please practice Leave no Trace climbing ethics.
For more information on low-impact climbing practices, visit www.accessfund.org/boulderproject/coex.php. For more information on Friends of Muir Valley, visit www.friendsofmuirvalley.org/.
LAC Final Meeting Scheduled, Red River Gorge, KY (02/14/2008)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
On Tuesday February 19, 2008 the Limits of Acceptable Change (LAC) process for Red River Gorge will wrap up in one final review meeting at the Daniel Boone National Forest Supervisor’s Office in Winchester, Kentucky. The last two LAC meetings held in January 2008 have focused on potential management actions if recreational impacts exceed LAC standards. In relation to climbing, 245 “climbsites” in Red River Gorge have been found to have measurable impacts but only 25 of theses sites exceed LAC standards. A “climbsite” is a staging area at the base of one or more climbing routes. Proposed management actions to mitigate impacts above standards include trail relocation, climbsite modifications using native materials to reduce size and erosion, and site hardening using non-native materials. Additional management actions in support of the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition’s goal to improve all climbsites include signage, education efforts, and evaluation of ways to reduce impacts even where LAC standards are not exceeded.
Undoubtedly the results of the Red River Gorge LAC process are precedent setting and not just for climbing. Throughout the process climbers have worked hard to make sure that LAC efforts to limit impacts do not at the same time limit climbing. The final results of LAC are expected to lead to a Climbing Management Plan that will provide procedures and guidelines for new routes and areas to be developed. This outcome would not have been possible without the dedicated efforts of the climbers involved in almost monthly meetings over the last three years: Dwight Bradburn, RRGCC Treasurer; Shannon Stuart-Smith; past RRGCC Executive Director and Board Member; Jim Holzman, past RRGCC Board Member; Chris Carr, Recreational Ecologist; and Rita Wehner, USFS Backcountry Ranger.
Red River Gorge, KY – LAC Process Nears Completion (12/13/2007)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
The Limits of Acceptable Change process for Red River Gorge is nearing an end. After two more LAC Workshops scheduled for January 2008, the recommended alternative is expected to be given to Daniel Boone Forest Supervisor, Jerome Perez for a final decision. The alternative that the LAC group strongly supports is Alternative 2, Balance Recreation and Protection of Resources. The end of the LAC process brings climbers hope that the development of new sport routes in the Gorge will be allowed to resume. A moratorium on new sport route development has been in place for almost five years. The moratorium was initiated during the revision of the Forest Plan for the entire forest and was extended through the three year LAC process.
Another ongoing Forest Service process of interest to climbers is the development of a Heritage Resource Management Plan for Red River Gorge. LAC participants were updated on the status of this process by Forest Archaeologist, Chris Jenkins during the most recent workshop held on December 6, 2007. Mr. Jenkins explained that he is currently working on digesting an 800-page report documenting heritage resources in the Gorge. He said that he needs a couple more months working on the report before he can write the management plan. He thinks that after he is through digesting the report, he can write the Heritage Resource Management Plan in about six weeks. Throughout these Forest Service processes the RRGCC has periodically consulted with the Access Fund’s Policy Director, Jason Keith.
Petzl Roc Trip Brings In Over $30,000 to Preserve Recreational Access, KY (11/16/2007)
Joint Petzl/Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition press release
This fall Petzl America and the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) made history with an unprecedented effort to preserve climbing and recreational access in eastern Kentucky. By joining forces for this year’s annual Rocktoberfest fundraiser and climbers’ festival, Petzl and the RRGCC raised over $32,000––a ten-fold increase from last year’s event earnings and more than triple the initial goal of raising $10,000 for the RRGCC. Fundraising power was bolstered by a $10,000 matching grant from the Petzl Foundation that provided added incentive for climbers to pitch in for climbing and recreation access in the Red River Gorge area.
In 2004, climbers and advocates of the RRGCC purchased the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve, a 750-acre plot of undeveloped land now being developed for climbing, hiking, mountain-biking, and human-powered recreation access. On October 12–14, an international crowd of nearly 1,000 climbers gathered for a weekend of clinics, competitions, and celebration. The money raised during the Rocktoberfest weekend will help cover the RRGCC’s annual $29,000 mortgage payment (due through 2013) to protect the Pendergrass-Murray Preserve. Without funds to cover the yearly mortgage, the preserve could fall into the hands of interested oil developers, which would shut down climbing on the land.
Fundraising by climbers to preserve access even made national headlines! This year’s RocTrip/Rocktoberfest’s philanthropy efforts piqued the interest of National Public Radio’s It’s Only A Game. A segment covering Rocktoberfest aired on the nationally broadcast radio program on October 27. Globally, the event generated buzz on 8a (www.8a.nu), the Internet’s most widely trafficked sport-climbing site, which now spotlights the Red River Gorge as a world-class climbing destination.
“This year’s Petzl RocTrip showed what can be done when a company with heart and soul gets behind something it believes in,” says Robb Shurr, Director of Marketing and Business Development for the Access Fund, a national non-profit organization dedicated to keeping climbing areas open and preserving the climbing environment. “Having places to climb is fundamental to Petzl’s business, but they took it one step further and got behind a local access issue with national importance and really pushed for success. It’s exactly this sort of involvement, vision, and stewardship that will keep climbing and recreational areas preserved and viable for the future.” Shurr continues, “The Access Fund has always been proud to have Petzl as one of its biggest and longest standing partners—we’re especially proud after seeing the success of this year’s RocTrip.”
“We owe the success of this event to the local community––the volunteers, the RRGCC Board, area businesses, and the 1,000-plus people who came out and put dollars down in support of the Pendergrass-Murray Preserve,” says John Evans, Marketing Director for Petzl America. “I highly recommend other outdoor companies include this outstanding grassroots event in their outreach programs for 2008. I guarantee Petzl will be back to support this great cause.”
The success of Petzl RocTrip/Rocktoberfest 2007 was supported by The Access Fund, Avery Brewing Company, Five Ten, Keen, the climber-friendly Miguel’s Pizza, La Sportiva, Prana, Red Bull, Red River Gorge Cabin Rentals, Red River Outdoors, Rock and Ice magazine, Sterling Ropes, and The Warrior’s Way/Desiderata Institute.
Petzl Roc Trip, now in its sixth year, successfully brings the international climbing community together in celebration of the sport, from New York’s Shawangunks to British Columbia’s Squamish to Kalymnos, Greece and Millau in the south of France. Open to climbers of all ability levels, the 2007 Petzl Roc Trip/Rocktoberfest featured competitions, clinics, and celebrations of climbing; raised funds and awareness for local and national access issues; and drew over 35 high-profile, sponsored climbing athletes.
Fires and Crowds at Red River Gorge, KY (10/11/2007)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
Fall is typically fire season in Kentucky, and a severe drought this summer has created particularly dangerous fire conditions. After a lightning-induced fire started above the popular Funk Rock City crag in the Clifty Wilderness, the USFS temporarily closed the area to climbing on September 7, 2007. This fire grew from about 5 acres to over 18 acres, and burning snags falling from the top of the cliff burned 1 to 2 acres at the cliff base. The fire eventually burned out, and the Forest Service reopened the area to climbing on October 1, 2007.
Then on October 4, 2007, the Forest Service issued a 120-day ban on all open fires outside of developed recreation areas in the Daniel Boone National Forest. The governor of Kentucky has also issued a statewide ban on all open burning. Due to the fire danger, the private Muir Valley climbing area has instituted a temporary ban on smoking and all sources of open flames.
The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC)-owned Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) does not allow open fires at any time on the property. Forest fires burned portions of both Muir Valley and the PMRP last fall. Please respect the fire bans and refrain from smoking no matter where you are climbing in the Red River Gorge.
Over Labor Day and, more recently, over the Columbus Day / Canadian Thanksgiving weekend, Muir Valley experienced large crowds that resulted in a serious parking problem. As a result, Muir Valley has issued the following parking guidelines: 1. Please park responsibly. Don’t leave 3/4 of a space between your car and the adjacent one. 2. Don’t park off of the graveled parking lot anywhere adjacent to it. 3. Don’t block other cars or the entrance to the maintenance building. 4. Weekends this fall you may park down the hill past the barn in the lower meadow, unless there has been a recent rain.
In other news, Muir Valley is holding their annual trail day on November 10, 2007. More information about the Muir Valley, their trail day, and how you can contribute to maintaining this area can be found on these websites: www.muirvalley.com and www.friendsofmuirvalley.org.
Red River Gorge, KY Update (08/15/2007)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
With the 2007 mortgage payment for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) out of the way, the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition has been preparing for two major events coming up this fall, the Mountain Gear UCLIMB being held the weekend of September 15 & 16 and the Petzl Roc Trip at Rocktoberfest being held the weekend of October 12-14.
In other news, the Military Wall Cliffline Protection and Restoration Project was removed from consideration for its 2008 budget due to the transfer of the staff person preparing the environmental assessment. Due to transfers and retirements the Daniel Boone National Forest, many Districts are severely understaffed, especially the Redbird District, this position may not be filled immediately, however the USFS has indicated that may pick the project back up once it has adequate staffing.
Dogs: A Continued Access Problem in Red River Gorge, KY (07/16/2007)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director, Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
Muir Valley Nature Preserve is a 400-acre piece of private land with 7+ miles of cliff line near Red River Gorge, Kentucky that the owners, Rick and Liz Weber, have graciously opened for climbing development. Upon opening the area to climbing they institute the following rule with regards to dogs:
“Dogs must be kept on leashes at all times everywhere in Muir Valley. They must be restrained at the base of climbs such that they cannot interfere with and/or distract belayers or damage plants in the area”
Due to continuing problems with dogs at Muir Valley, Rick Weber posted the following announcement on the www.redriverclimbing.com website:
“Effective January 1, 2008, dogs will no longer be permitted in Muir Valley. This date can and will be moved up if flagrant infractions and incidents continue. Until then, dog owners who disregard the leash rule will lose visitor privileges.
Rick”
Climbers not following the dog rule at Torrent Falls were one of the primary reasons that public access to climbing there was closed. Again, we are reminded of why it is important know and follow all rules when climbing in the Red River Gorge area regardless of whether on public or private land. If these rules are ignored, more restrictions or even closure may follow.
Update on Red River Gorge, KY (05/15/2007)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) The Red River Reunion and a grant from Patagonia secured the funds for RRGCC owned Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) 2007 mortgage payment. The Patagonia grant was received with the assistance of the Benchmark Outdoor Outfitters of Cincinnati, Ohio. Our sincere thanks go to all of the climbers and businesses who contributed to the 2007 fundraising effort.
On May 7 the RRGCC, Charmane Oil and Lee County agreed to work together to provide maintenance needs for Bald Rock Fork Road aka the road to the Motherlode, Sore Heel Hollow, Bob Marley, and Drive-By areas of the PMRP. The RRGCC Board approved a motion to provide Charmane up to $2,000 to defray material costs for maintaining the roads on the PMRP that are used by climbers.
In order to maintain positive relations between the three parties, climbers are asked to drive slowly, yield to other vehicles, and not obstruct oil facilities or vehicles. For climbers visiting the PMRP during the week if oil vehicles are blocking the road, climbers should consider going to another crag. It is also asked that climbers think about carpooling to the PMRP/Motherlode areas, use a 4WD vehicle or other vehicle that is capable of negotiating these roads, and show common courtesy to oil workers and others driving in the area.
Finally, the RRGCC is monitoring ownership issues regarding the renowned Motherlode sport climbing crag. The local owners of the land have told RRGCC representatives that they have separately sold the mineral rights for the property and that they intend to make surface rights available on eBay Reserve.
Torrent Falls
Torrent Falls is being purchased by climber and Red River Gorge hero Dr. Bob Matheny. Dr. Matheny will use the main bed and breakfast building at Torrent as his personal vacation home. The cabins on the property will still be available for rental through a management company. The current Torrent owners, Mark and Kathy Meyer will continue to operate their barbecue and climbing adventure business on the property next door. As the Meyers have been living in the main building at Torrent, climbing will continue to be limited to paid guests until they find a new home. After the purchase is finalized in a closing, conditions for a partial reopening of climbing will be announced.
Hope for Access, Torrent Falls, KY (04/19/2007)
Pending final approval of the loan and closing, Torrent Falls has been purchased by Bob Matheny (Dr. Bob) with the assistance of Matt and Amy Tackett. Mark Meyers and his family will continue to live at Torrent and the area is not currently open for climbing. Details regarding long term access for climbing are being worked out and will be announced when available.
RRGCC Fundraising Challenge, KY (04/19/2007)
By RRGC BOD
The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition has had an anonymous benefactor volunteer to provide up to $5,000 in matching funds towards the 2007 Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve payment due on July 15, 2007. To help get our fundraising efforts underway and ensure we make our goals for 2007 they have agreed to the following challenge setup to add some fun and excitement to fundraising effort:
This challenge will run for three more months—April, May, & June 2007—and the challenge amount for each month will be $1,250.
For each month if $1,250 is raised by the end of the month then that amount will be matched with $1,250 from the benefactor.
The postmark date will be considered the contribution date for mailed payments.
Whoever contributes the largest amount each month or those responsible for the largest fundraising event, whichever is greater, will be recognized as the "RRGCC Fundraiser of the Month.” They will receive a gift package of appreciation consisting a climbing related DVD and a t-shirt at a minimum.
We are working on getting some other goodies to put in these packages and will let everyone know what they are as the packages are put together.
Home gym fundraisers were very effective last year as well as climber funded slideshows. Use your imagination, get your partners together and have some fun. Let's use this generous offer to help us continue to secure the largest, and one of the best, climber owned climbing area in the US.
For donation information see: www.rrgcc.org/membership.php
Thanks For Your Support!
Sending “The Business” in Red River Gorge, KY (03/12/2007)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
As of Mid-February 2007 almost $16,000 had been collected towards the annual mortgage payment for the RRGCC owned Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) in Lee County, Kentucky. With the annual payment of $29,393 due on July 15, the RRGCC is continuing to ramp up its efforts to secure this purchase (For donation info see: www.rrgcc.org/membership.php.
The PMRP, with over 700-acres of land, is home to well over 300 routes with new lines being discovered and developed weekly. At the end of 2006, the first 5.14c in Red River Gorge was established when Mike Doyle redpointed “Lucifer” at the Purgatory area of the PMRP.
Equally important, the US Forest Service has stepped up the pace of the Red River Gorge Limits of Acceptable Change (LAC) workshops. Currently on Step 6 of the nine-step process, participation by local climbers is key to maintaining climbing access on Federally owned land in the Gorge. Now meeting more than once a month, workshop participants are presently working to “identify alternative opportunity zone allocations.” At the heart of these meetings is an effort to find a solution that works for all stakeholders, the main options being: 1) emphasis on resource protection; 2) balance between resource protection and recreation; 3) emphasis on recreation and tourism; and 4) no action.
Finally the RRGCC has scheduled two Adopt-A-Crag Day events for 2007. The first event will be held in conjunction with the Red River Reunion being held at Miguel’s Pizza & Rock Climbing in Slade, KY on April 21, 2007. In keeping with the spirit of Earth Day, this Adopt-A-Crag Day will have a Gorge-wide Trash Clean-up and Scavenging Contest. Contestants will present their most interesting pieces of trash to be judged by the crowd that evening at Miguel’s.
Also, this year the 3rd Annual John Bronaugh & Alex Yeakley Adopt-A-Crag Day will be held on August 4, 2007 at the PMRP. This event is devoted to developing new routes and supporting trail development. Held since 2005, this day honors the legacy of the late John Bronaugh and the passion for climbing that he shared with his late son Alex Yeakley.
Closure Threat Becomes Reality at Torrent Falls, KY (12/15/2006)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition
In response to continued disrespectful behavior by some climbers, the owners of Torrent Falls, a popular Red River Gorge crag, have decided to close the area to unrestricted climbing.
Guests renting a cabin at Torrent Falls resort may still climb on the property. This closure was announced and made effective on Friday, November 24, 2006.
When the closure was first threatened earlier this spring, the RRGCC convinced the owners to write a set of rules and give climbers a chance to show that they could follow them. Unfortunately not all climbers were following the rules.
Recent flagrant incidents cited by the owners in explaining their reasons for moving forward with the closure included someone who leashed their dog to a “No Dogs Allowed” sign. Another disturbing incident occurred when the owners were showing close friends around their property and came across a woman urinating out in the open despite the fact that the owners have provided a port-o-let for use by climbers.
In addition to the Torrent rules having been posted in the parking area as well as the RRGCC kiosk at Miguel’s, the rules and the tenuous situation at Torrent was made widely known to the climbing community on various websites, in the Access Fund e-news, and in the RRGCC newsletter.
All indications are that 2006 was the busiest season yet for the Red River Gorge. While the RRGCC will look at ways to improve climber education about access issues during its’ planning for 2007, we are somewhat at a loss as to how to deal with climbers who blatantly disregarded very simple and common sense behavioral guidelines that could have kept Torrent open.
We ask that climbers please respect the tough decision made by Mark and Kathy Meyer to discontinue open climbing access at Torrent. Also please remember that disrespectful behavior and failure to follow rules at any climbing area in Red River Gorge, whether on private or public land, has the potential to negatively affect access.
Know whose property you are climbing on and what is expected of you as a guest on that property. Detailed information on the various areas and guidelines are readily available in Ray Ellington’s Red River Gorge guidebook.
Climber’s Proposal for LAC Accepted, KY (11/14/2006)
By Bill Strachan, Executive Director Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition
At the Limits of Acceptable Change (LAC) Workshop held on October 24, 2006 in Winchester, KY climbers presented a proposal regarding standards for climbing in Red River Gorge. This proposal was accepted by the overall LAC group with no changes except for the correction of a couple of typographical errors. At the beginning of the meeting RRGCC Board member Shannon Stuart-Smith made a presentation first about climbing in general and then specifically about climbing in Red River Gorge. This was followed with Bill Strachan presenting the LAC standards developed by climbers.
The proposal developed by climbers limits the amount of impact that can occur both at a “climbsite” and at a “climbing-area” before a management action must be considered by the Forest Service. A “climb-site” is a staging area at the base of one or more climbing routes and a “climbing area” is a grouping of closely spaced “climb-sites”. A key aspect to this proposal is the concept that the Forest Service will look at approving new climbing on an area basis instead of the current route by route basis. The proposal also allows for the installation of new bolts in areas approved by the Forest Service except for areas located in a “Pristine” zone. For areas that are located in a “Pristine” zone, existing bolts will be allowed to remain or be replaced. All existing climbing areas within the scope of LAC are considered to be approved pending the completion of surveys for cultural and biological resources. Any new areas proposed by climbers will have to be surveyed before climbing development can proceed.
Many thanks go to everyone involved in the climbers working group that put together the proposed LAC standards for climbing. This working group consisted of current RRGCC Board members Shannon Stuart-Smith and Dwight Bradburn; past RRGCC President, Jim Holzman; Chris Carr; Rita Wehner; and myself, Bill Strachan. Many hours were spent in meetings and in phone calls hashing out the final proposal. Thanks also to Jason Keith, Access Fund Policy Director for his involvement in reviewing our work. The non-climbers involved in the LAC process offered compliments on the thoughtfulness and effort made by climbers in putting together their proposal.
Torrent Falls, KY Faces New Threat (08/16/2006)
After weathering a threatened closure earlier this spring due to problems with climber behavior, the popular Torrent Falls crag in Red River Gorge faces a new threat from the proposed sale of the property.
At the beginning of August, Mark Meyer the owner of Torrent Falls announced his intention to put the property on the market on September 1st, 2006. There is no guarantee that the next owner will be climber friendly. In fact the previous owner who developed the bed and breakfast on the property had closed the climbing area during their tenure.
The Torrent Falls crag has 47 routes ranging in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.13. It is a popular sport climbing destination due to its ease of access and the quality of the climbing including the five star Porter Jarrard routes Centerfire (5.11c), Bare Metal Teen (5.12a), Steelworker (5.12c), Racer X (5.12d) and Dave Hume’s rarely repeated five star route Paranoia (5.13b).
The entire property for sale amounts to 42 acres and, in addition to the crag, bed and breakfast, and cabins, includes the only true European Via Ferratta in the United States. The asking price for the property is $900,000. For details of the existing commercial operations being conducted on the property please visit: www.torrentfalls.com/
The RRGCC and the Access Fund are interested in seeing that the property is transferred to a climbing friendly owner. If you or someone you know would be interested in pursuing this opportunity, please call and leave a message on Bill Strachan’s voice mail at 1-888-804-1439 and he will return your call with contact information for Mark Meyer.