North Carolina Breaking News
Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson Visits NC and CA (07/15/2008)
Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson hit the road this June with site visits to Asheville, North Carolina and San Diego, California. In early June Brady visited with members of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) and Boone Climbers Coalition (BCC) who are working on access issues and opportunities at Grandmother boulders, Asheboro boulders, Laurel Knob, Rumbling Bald, Chimney Rock, and Perry’s Paradise. “It was great to meet with the CCC and BCC. Both local climbing organizations (LCOs) have done so much for climbing access in North Carolina and really are model LCOs, “ said Brady. “And, of course, I enjoyed climbing at my old backyard crags.”
Later in the month, Brady met with members of the Allied Climbers of San Diego at their annual Summer Celebration Fundraising event. While in San Diego, Brady had the opportunity to visit climbing areas within the Cleveland National Forest that are threatened with an extensive proposed closure. (See Access Fund Action Alert: www.accessfund.org/display/page/AA/54.) “Seeing the closure area in person really underscores how overreaching the Forest Service’s proposal is,” noted Brady. “The proposed closure goes well beyond the sensible bird nesting closures in place at climbing areas across the country. There is plenty of room for climbers and birds of prey in the Cleveland National Forest. The climbers I met with are committed to protecting raptor habitat and would support a more focused management strategy. I am confident we will be able to find a good compromise.”
Blue Ridge Parkway Prepares General Management Plan (04/15/2008)
The National Park Service (NPS) is preparing a general management plan (GMP) for the Blue Ridge Parkway. This plan could affect high-quality bouldering and climbing areas such as Grandmother Boulders and Shiprock. The Carolina Climbers Coalition has been working with the NPS to maintain climbing access to these popular areas. For more background, see www.carolinaclimbers.org/Ship-Rock.html.
This GMP will provide a vision for the parkway's future and help guide decision-making for the next 20 years, including recreation policy that could affect climbing access. The Blue Ridge Parkway has developed three preliminary alternatives, and 15 of the parkway’s large recreation areas are addressed in these three alternatives.
Review the draft plan and submit comments http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?....
For more information, contact the Carolina Climbers Coalition: www.carolinaclimbers.org.
Access Update, NC (02/14/2008)
By Anthony Love, President, Carolina Climbers Coalition
In October 2007, the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) held its annual Fall meeting during the 15th annual Hound Ears Bouldering Competition. Elections for new officers were held, and the new group set out to conquer the tasks remaining from the last year and to seek new opportunities for the new year.
During the weekend following the Hound Ears leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Competition, the CCC officially opened the Asheboro boulderfield. The Asheboro Boulders, located in Randolf County, NC had been closed to the climbing community until 2007. In 2003, Mike Dean negotiated an agreement with the landowner to allow the CCC to lease the land. The deal came to fruition in 2007 after a lengthy property dispute and the installation of a new road to the property. The terms of the lease offer climbing access to current or new members of the CCC. To climb at the Asheboro Boulders, please renew or become a member of the CCC. www.carolinaclimbers.org
Laurel Knob has been open to the public now for a little over two years. To date, all the established routes (save one) have been rebolted. As part of the land management plan for the area, the CCC asked climbers to complete an application process to put up new routes. Currently, two routes have been established and 6 more are in the works. The CCC greatly appreciates the efforts of all who have applied and taken part in this process.
Two rescue situations have provided the opportunity to strengthen the capabilities of the Cashiers Volunteer Rescue Squad, as well as install better trail marking for the trail system. Since climbing at Laurel Knob is such a rich experience (read: strenuous hike, big imposing routes over some spicy terrain), the CCC will be hosting an event at “the Knob” called Get in the Groove to help acclimatize folks to the trail, the cliff and its routes. Come climbing February 23 & 24 and get in the groove!
The CCC greatly appreciates all who gave comments regarding alternative plans for the Developed Area Management Plan for the Moses Cone Memorial Park (which includes the Blowing Rock Boulderfield). The National Park Service is in the process of refining their alternatives. Visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?... to keep up with news of the project.
Lastly, the CCC will hold their annual spring meeting at Stone Mountain, NC at 5:00pm on March 15th. Please join the fun!
Visit the CCC online at: www.carolinaclimbers.org to renew your membership or join, to find out more information on the Get in the Groove Event, and receive additional information on what’s happening in the Carolina climbing community.
Ship Rock Closure, NC (04/19/2007)
Area closure in effect: all access above the rock climb anguish of captain bligh is prohibited. The Boone Climbers Coalition is working in cooperation with the National Park Service to notify climbers of a closure at Ship Rock on the Blue Ridge Parkway.
ALL CLIMBERS, PLEASE NOTE trail, hiking, descent or ascent access above the routes Anguish of Captain Bligh and Harpoon is strictly prohibited. The anchors for the routes Anguish of Captain Bligh and Harpoon should only be approached by lead climbing either route. If your party plans to top rope either of these routes, one or the other must be lead. Top access to this set of anchors is strictly prohibited.
RAPPEL DESCENTS REQUIRED FOR ROCKCLIMBING AT SHIPROCK: all climbers must use existing rappel stations for descent. Rappel stations are located atop the routes: “Boardwalk” (for main section of cliff) and “Edge of a Dream” (for upper tier routes).
These closures will be posted with permanent signage soon if not currently. The BCC and the National Park Service work towards the common goals of protecting and preserving our park lands and providing opportunities to enhance responsible use of our climbing resources. So, in cooperation with the BCC, the National Park Service will be installing a Kiosk for climbers at Ship Rock. The Kiosk will contain information on rules and restrictions, closures, and safety info such as locations of rappel stations to descend the cliff.
Chimney Rock purchased by Hickory Nut Gorge State Park, NC (02/14/2007)
By Brad McLeod, Access Fund Board Member
On January 30, 2007, The State of North Carolina announced plans to officially buy Chimney Rock (996 acre parcel) for $24 million. Sean Cobourn, past President of the Carolina Climbers Coalition stated "The CCC has been lobbying for this and today the dream came true. CRP will now be included in the new Hickory Nut Gorge State Park. Don't pull out your rack yet, but keep your fingers crossed that we can negotiate access to this gem."
The purchase of the Chimney Rock parcel adds to the expanding 2,264 acres of Hickory Nut Gorge State Park which includes Rumbling Bald known for its fantastic crack climbing and a hillside strewn with hundreds of boulders.
The Carolina Climbers Coalition has worked hard over the past years to work out the details of purchasing the Rumbling Bald tract from private landowners and transferring this land to the newly formed State Park.
Sean Barb, current President of the CCC explained "This is obviously a really, really big deal for more than just the climbing community. Fortunately for climbers, North Carolina State Parks are skilled at balancing the provision of recreation with natural resource protection. Lets all look forward to working within the State Park's planning processes which will ensure that future generations will have a wonderful park to enjoy."
Chimney Rock sits on the opposite side of the rugged gorge overlooking Lake Lure and is punctuated by a 400 ft. waterfall and stunning 300 ft. chimney.
Carolina Climbers Coalition, NC Update (12/15/2006)
By Anthony Love, CCC Vice President
Last year was a grand one for the CCC. Some of our accomplishments include: assisting in the inclusion of Rumbling Bald into Hickory Nut State Park (a new North Carolina state park), purchasing 50 acres, (which includes Laurel Knob the highest rock face in the eastern United States) and, opening Laurel Knob for public climbing. Funds for the purchase came through worldwide donations, contributions from the outdoor industry, and the financial and resource support of the Access Fund.
All this activity was primarily due to the efforts of John Myers and Sean Cobourn. John is a former board member of the Access Fund and a significant contributor to the Laurel Knob Project. Sean Cobourn, a founding Director of the Access Fund and current AF Regional Coordinator, boldly led the CCC into a new era as an organization, planned and facilitated the acquisition of the legendary Laurel Knob. Sean’s motivation, drive and vision transformed the CCC from a small grassroots organization into a visible and respected climbing non-profit organization. As a tribute, the Access Fund awarded Sean the prestigious Menocal Lifetime Achievement Award as testament to his climbing advocacy. The CCC is especially indebted to the incredible efforts and accomplishments of John Myers and Sean Cobourn.
The CCC held officer elections at our annual meeting during the Hound Ears event of the Triple Crown Bouldering Competition. CCC officers include Sean Barb, President; Anthony Love, Vice President; Edward Medina, Secretary; and Aram Attarian, treasurer. In addition the new officers have appointed a board to oversee and provide support in business matters. The new officers are excited about the challenges and opportunities on the road ahead.
The new officers hit the ground running with the creation of a Climbing Management Plan for Laurel Knob (for more info please visit www.carolinaclimbers.org), implementation of a new system to manage membership, and their continued efforts to open the Asheboro Boulders to climbers.
Once again, I am proud to say Laurel Knob is OPEN! The CCC has a comprehensive management plan in its FINAL stages of revision and implementation. During this time and since its opening, the CCC has come up with a general set of guidelines for public use at Laurel Knob. These are posted at Laurel Knob on the climbers kiosk, and on the CCC website (www.carolinaclimbers.org). We encourage all climbers to visit and enjoy this incredible resource, but would like to remind all to please respect the guidelines created for its use.
Boone Climbers Coalition Update NC (12/15/2006)
By Anthony Love, President
The Boone Climbers Coalition (BCC) had another active fall and winter season. We have re-strengthened our relationship with the National Park Service, our Access Fund Board Members and officers, and most importantly our membership.
One of the BCC members, Zachary Lesch-Huie, offered us a unique opportunity to work with the American Chestnut Foundation and the Blue Ridge Parkway to help a project to restore chestnut tree populations. American Chestnut Foundation scientist, Paul Cisco worked with BCC members to collect “burrs”, which contain Chestnut seeds, from trees along the Blue Ridge Parkway and on Grandmother Mountain. The seeds collected during this project will be used to develop a hybrid strain on chestnut tree that resists the chestnut blight, a disease that is responsible for nearly wiping out this species. The American Chestnut Foundation will reintroduce these hybrids in areas throughout the US in an effort to restore chestnut tree populations.
This year the BCC hosted their annual Adopt-a-Crag event at Hawksbill within the Linville Gorge Wilderness. The trail to approach Hawksbill follows a steep grade that is constantly under attack from erosion. Twelve members helped build water bars on the existing trail and brush-in sections of spider trails up to the main cliffs at Hawksbill.
Shortly after the Adopt-a-Crag, the BCC had another record turn-out for their third annual Sudz and Slidez event at the Black Cat Burrito. The Sudz and Slidez events have been the most effective way to get members of our community together. These events have been great venues for our meetings and fundraisers. This fall, we were lucky enough to have Access Fund Ambassador Jason Kehl give a presentation. Jason entertained a crowd of 115 people with a slideshow from his most recent trip to Japan. Jason and our many sponsors made this another incredibly successful and fun event for everyone.
News from the Blue Ridge Parkway: The BCC provided comments to a newly proposed plan to develop a section of the Blue Ridge Parkway known as the Moses Cone Memorial Park. The Blowing Rock Boulders lie within the Moses Cone Memorial Park. This plan provides for the enhancement of cultural learning in the park, but also offered closure of this important climbing resource as one alternative they could consider. While some of the proposed alternatives do pose threats to the Blowing Rock Boulders, there are also other alternatives that offer the enhancement of trails into the boulderfield and continuation of bouldering activity.
The Park Service has sought public input to this plan and the BCC has been adamant about getting the local and regional climbing community to provide this necessary input. We look forward to seeing what the next round of planning produces and feel confident a balanced plan that includes climbing can be achieved.
In other news, members of the BCC were invited to attend the Annual Board Meeting of the Access Fund this fall in Lake Lure North Carolina. The experience proved once again to be valuable and educational for all involved. The opportunity to sit down and talk face to face with the board and staff is a great asset for both the BCC as well as the Carolina Climbers Coalition who were generous enough to host us.
For more info about the Boone Climbers Coalition and to join our email list, please visit www.ncbouldering.com/BCC.htm