Washington Breaking News
‘Ryan’s Wall’ Established at Newhalem, WA (10/15/2008)
By Access Fund WA Regional Coordinator Jonah Harrison
Ryan Alan Murray Triplett passed away on September 7, 2008, while soloing a multi-pitch climb near Mazama, Washington. Ryan left as his legacy his loving wife Jen, wonder dog Makiah, his family, and friends too numerous too mention. He was an avid and talented biker and skier, but his true passion was rock climbing.
Ryan was as skilled a traditional climber as he was a sport climber. In recent years, he developed a slew of hard sport lines throughout Washington. His main focus was Newhalem, Washington on the west slope of the North Cascades. Ryan worked with the Access Fund in their efforts to reopen the crag, which is part of a long gorge (the Skagit River Gorge) filled with incredible new route potential on steep, featured gneiss with road-side access. The minute the Access Fund and the National Park Service entered an agreement reopening parts of the gorge, Ryan headed up from his home in Seattle and began establishing new lines. Ryan was amazingly motivated and quickly established modern classics as well as heady test pieces on the main wall closest to town.
Though climbers have been climbing at that wall since 2000, all new routes stopped in 2003 with the imposition of a voluntary moratorium on new route development. The wall had remained an unnamed work in progress. Since his untimely passing, Ryan's friends and the climbing community have discussed different ways to honor his memory. They decided that naming the wall Ryan's Wall would be appropriate and will use that name in the area guidebook Ryan had begun drafting. Ryan loved the area and his spirit lives on in the lines he established that will be enjoyed for generations to come.
Access Fund ‘TeamWorks’ Trail Project Builds on Climbing Access Success at Newhalem, WA (09/16/2008)
On September 13 rock climbers and three conservation groups joined the National Park Service to build and restore access paths to climbing crags outside of Newhalem, Washington at Ross Lake National Recreation Area.
Since 2003 The Access Fund has worked with the North Cascades National Park, joined by members of the Washington Climbers Coalition (www.washingtonclimbers.org), to negotiate access to spectacular unclimbed cliffs outside Newhalem. Late last year all the worked came to fruition when climbers and the park service came up with a compromise that allowed access to some of the area’s many undeveloped crags pending the development of a larger management plan. For more information, see www.accessfund.org/regions/news/WA.
Saturday's stewardship project was an Access Fund-organized “TeamWorks” event that seeks to educate young indoor climbers on the transition from inside to outside environments by focusing on Leave No Trace ethics and responsible rock climbing habits. TeamWorks is designed to instill and foster a sense of stewardship and pride in caring for our outside climbing environments leading to long term conservation of climbing areas.
For more on this Access Fund program, see www.boulderproject/teamworks. The Newhalem trail project was assisted by kids from Seattle’s "Vertical World" youth climbing team who got their first chance to climb on a real rock face, rather than on a wall in a climbing gym.
Charles Beall, from North Cascades National Park, says "This really is a success story. The National Park Service, working with the climbing groups and other partners, has found a way to accommodate this recreational use, while balancing our mandate to protect park resources."
Saturday’s trail project at Newhalem was assisted by the Washington Trails Association—who provided trail building expertise and tools—and The Wilderness Society who provided logistical support and help at the event. For more information regarding this event, contact Access Fund Regional Coordinator Jonah Harrison (jonahv10@yahoo.com) or the Washington Climbers Coalition (Info@washingtonclimbers.org).
Corbin Crag–Post Falls Spokane River, WA (06/16/2008)
By Rusty Bailie, Kootenai Klimbers
Some folks who read about the City of Post Falls acquiring Corbin Crag have been asking if it’s open for climbing. The cliff in question is on the far side of the river when viewed from the old concrete ramp in Corbin Park. The new city land is closely surrounded by private houses and the only access road is on closed private roads. One of the major purposes of this deal was to ensure the privacy and environmental integrity of the parcel. Given all this, it will take a great deal of careful and creative planning to devise a long-term public access strategy.
We are working with the Parks and Recreation Department to formulate a climbing plan. Anyone interested in helping out or exploring the area can contact us at baillie2@verizon.net.
North Cascades National Park Agrees to Allow New Climbing Routes in the Skagit River Gorge, WA (02/14/2008)
Since 2003, the Access Fund has worked with climbing activists in Washington State to respond to concerns of the North Cascades National Park regarding climbing and bouldering impacts in the Skagit River Gorge near Newhalem, Washington. These areas host high quality sport climbing and extensive bouldering www.misha.org/Climbing/Newhalem/Map1.html. Unfortunately, much of the bouldering requires extensive cleaning of moss and lichen.
In 2003 climbers and park officials agreed to a moratorium on the development of new climbing routes and bouldering problems pending the establishment of a climbing management plan (CMP). The CMP could authorize new route development after environmental and cultural resource surveys are completed. Since 2003, climbers have fulfilled their end of the bargain, but the National Park Service was unable, for a variety of reasons, to complete a new CMP that allowed new route development. For more background, see www.accessfund.org/pdf/RossLake-NRA_12-03.pdf.
In September 2007, climbers met with North Cascades National Park’s new Superintendent and Chief Ranger to discuss the ongoing new route ban. The parties agreed to a compromise that would allow new climbing routes on cliffs that already experienced climbing traffic prior to 2003, while the balance of the Skagit River Gorge could be reopened following the completion of an ongoing general management planning process for the Ross Lake National Recreation Area.
This climbing access success is a result of the dogged activism of the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) and the National Park Service’s flexibility towards balancing recreation and resource protection.
For more information on what’s open and what’s not, stay tuned to the WCC website: www.washingtonclimbers.org/Climbing/.
Access Fund to work on Mt. Rainier Flood Recovery Initiative, WA (04/19/2007)
In November of 2006, torrential downpours across the American Northwest resulted in extensive flooding that caused an unprecedented amount of damage to the roadways, campgrounds, and trails of Mt. Rainier National Park. Repair costs of front country resources and lower elevation trails alone is expected to exceed $36 million dollars, with extensive levels of damage to backcountry resources which remain undetermined until this year’s snowpack melts.
As a primary destination for mountaineering in North America, the Access Fund is assisting with the rehabilitation of Mt. Rainier’s alpine trails, campgrounds, and climbers’ resources. Restoration projects will begin this summer once an inventory of projects has been compiled and will likely take two to three summer seasons of work to complete.
The Student Conservation Association (SCA) was named to lead the recovery efforts and the Access Fund looks forward to working with SCA and our grassroots network towards spearheading projects that directly rehabilitate climbing resources in this valuable alpine environment.
To learn more visit the Student Conservation Association website: www.thesca.org/Mt_Rainier_Recovery/ or contact Kristo Torgersen at kristo@accessfund.org.
Record Rain Forces Closure of Mt. Rainier National Park, WA (12/15/2006)
Mount Rainier is a restless mountain. The roads, bridges, trails, and campgrounds we build are secondary to the elemental forces that created-and continue to transform-this landscape we love. Our great works of human enterprise will fade away with time. The mountain will endure.
For the first time since Mt. St. Helens blew its top, Mt. Rainier National Park closed its gates to the public due to a torrential November 5-6 storm that also caused extensive damage to other regional national parks and forests in the Pacific Northwest.
After nearly 18 inches of rain fell in 36 hours, massive flood damage forced the closure of Mount Rainier National Park when high water damaged a variety of park roads, trails, campgrounds, buildings and facilities. Many power, water and sewer lines were also demolished. The first big snowfall of the season hit a few days after the rain, and so a final damage assessment will have to wait until spring. Photographs of the flood damage can be viewed at www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/upload/floodPP.pdf (5MB).
Park officials closed the main park road from the Nisqually Entrance to Paradise (the center for winter mountaineering) and Highway 123 is also closed due to a rockslide. State Routes 410 & 123 and the Paul Peak/Mowich Lake areas are also closed at the park boundaries by winter conditions but remain open to normal, non-motorized winter activities such as hiking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Walk-in access is available to Carbon River area trailheads by parking at the entrance and hiking the designated rough route along the washed out road. For more information see www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/november-2006-flooding.htm#CP_JUMP_137497
The Park said repairs could cost an estimated $29.85 million, most of which will go towards road repairs. NPS staff will share information on decisions, timelines, and other factors affecting flood recovery. For information on these public meetings see www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/upload/CmmtyMeetings.doc. The park plans to expand its volunteer program next spring to assist with flood cleanup and trail reconstruction. Individuals who are interested in helping may contact Volunteer Program Manager Kevin Bacher at 360-569-2211 ext. 3385 or Kevin_Bacher@nps.gov. The Access Fund will be offering our assistance to Mount Rainier National Park regarding how the climbing community can help with park reconstruction. Stay tuned to the Access Fund Enews for updates on Mt. Rainier NP recovery efforts and how you can help out.
Record Rain Forces Closure of Mt. Rainier National Park, WA (12/15/2006)
Mount Rainier is a restless mountain. The roads, bridges, trails, and campgrounds we build are secondary to the elemental forces that created-and continue to transform-this landscape we love. Our great works of human enterprise will fade away with time. The mountain will endure.
For the first time since Mt. St. Helens blew its top, Mt. Rainier National Park closed its gates to the public due to a torrential November 5-6 storm that also caused extensive damage to other regional national parks and forests in the Pacific Northwest.
After nearly 18 inches of rain fell in 36 hours, massive flood damage forced the closure of Mount Rainier National Park when high water damaged a variety of park roads, trails, campgrounds, buildings and facilities. Many power, water and sewer lines were also demolished. The first big snowfall of the season hit a few days after the rain, and so a final damage assessment will have to wait until spring. Photographs of the flood damage can be viewed at www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/upload/floodPP.pdf (5MB).
Park officials closed the main park road from the Nisqually Entrance to Paradise (the center for winter mountaineering) and Highway 123 is also closed due to a rockslide. State Routes 410 & 123 and the Paul Peak/Mowich Lake areas are also closed at the park boundaries by winter conditions but remain open to normal, non-motorized winter activities such as hiking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Walk-in access is available to Carbon River area trailheads by parking at the entrance and hiking the designated rough route along the washed out road. For more information see www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/november-2006-flooding.htm#CP_JUMP_137497
The Park said repairs could cost an estimated $29.85 million, most of which will go towards road repairs. NPS staff will share information on decisions, timelines, and other factors affecting flood recovery. For information on these public meetings see www.nps.gov/mora/parknews/upload/CmmtyMeetings.doc. The park plans to expand its volunteer program next spring to assist with flood cleanup and trail reconstruction. Individuals who are interested in helping may contact Volunteer Program Manager Kevin Bacher at 360-569-2211 ext. 3385 or Kevin_Bacher@nps.gov. The Access Fund will be offering our assistance to Mount Rainier National Park regarding how the climbing community can help with park reconstruction. Stay tuned to the Access Fund Enews for updates on Mt. Rainier NP recovery efforts and how you can help out.
Washington Climbers Coalition (12/15/2006)
By Jonah Harrison, Access Fund Regional Coordinator
The Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC), an Access Fund Affiliate, Reiter Trail Watch and state land managers have improved safety from objective hazards in Index, Washington. Reiter Trail Watch is a not for profit group of volunteers working to preserve, protect, increase awareness and maintain accessibility for all outdoor enthusiasts.
Index is a popular climbing area outside of Seattle, with hundreds of steep granite sport and traditional routes up to Grade IV in length. The area around Index is also very popular with off-road vehicle (ORV) enthusiasts. ORVs allow access to the top of the Upper Town Wall, a large wall perched on the mountainside outside the town of Index. In recent years, various objects have been thrown from the top (from beer bottles to car fenders) and there has been many close calls with climbers narrowly avoiding being hit.
Washington State Parks put up several signs at the top of the wall, warning of the danger to climbers below and threatening prosecution of those who throw objects off the wall, but these measures have proved ineffective.
During the past summer, Reiter Trail Watch and Washington State Parks devised a road termination plan involving placing a barricade that would prevent motorized access to the top of the wall. Recently, with a generous donation from the Washington Climbers Coalition, the Reiter Trail Watch installed a sturdy, permanent barrier in late October that will keep ORVs from accessing the top of the cliff. This reduces the risk that anyone will be able to drive to the top of the wall and throw objects down on climbers, and is a great example of meeting goals through cooperation between local recreation groups and government land managers.
Park Service Begins Management Plan Affecting Climbing and Bouldering Near Newhalem, WA (11/14/2006)
The National Park Service (NPS) recently announced that it will begin the process of crafting a General Management Plan (GMP) for Ross Lake National Recreation Area which lies adjacent to North Cascades National Park 1 ˝ hours north of Seattle. This updated GMP will describe the general path that the NPS intends to follow in managing the Ross Lake NRA over the next fifteen to twenty years. For planning details and to submit your own comments see http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?parkID=337&projectId=16940
At issue in this plan will be the future of climbing access to extensive climbing resources in the Skagit River Gorge which climbers had begun developing in 2001. After the NPS became aware of the new climbing and bouldering activity they asked climbers to stop developing new routes and bouldering areas pending a specific climbing management plan (CMP) that has yet to materialize. This GMP will address all aspects of ecosystem management and public uses of the NRA and thus the GMP will take several years to plan for and implement. Local climbers are hoping for a quicker result, especially after five years waiting for a CMP. In late October, the NPS completed a series of public “workshops” in Washington State and British Columbia to assess public opinion on the direction of the plan and what specific values should be protected. These meetings were well-attended by Access Fund representatives and members of the Washington Climbers Coalition (WCC) www.washingtonclimbers.org. For more information about the details of the plan and climbing resources near Newhalem, contact the WCC or email Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith at Jason@accessfund.org.